Viking Bio Help (ENlgish please)

[EarendilBG]

Hello,

Hope for some help in english.
The burner worked fine last year (on CTC 1100).

This year on the second day of operation there was some strange behaveor which I did not notice before.
Set on HIGH settings the fan was working quite low.. if I switch to Low - no difference (same speed of Fan). Then as it is working (flame is OK) the fan would almost stop for no apparent reason, then starts to spin again (but again not as fast as it should on HIGH settin.. so the flames are not OK.

As far as I remeber, before the fan would run on constat speed once flame is OK...

I tried on LOW to rotate the air knob, the speed changes, so the fan itself shoud be OK.

Than at one time after it reached temp, it started to cool but on low speed of fan.. usually when it stops the fan must blow at max speed.

Then one time while burning it stopped blowing and started to fill pellets non-stop.. so I had to restart it manually..

Now I got call from my father that it is copletely dead (no light on it at all) - I will check voltages tomorrow..

IS there note somewhere on this forum for similar behavior? Any tips are quite welcome, as there is not service for this burner here in Bulgaria.

I will post videos a bit later.

Thanks

[EarendilBG]

In this video, flae is OK and burner should be working on HIGH setting , but it is obvious it is not as strong as it should be.
At about 10 sec. after the beginning the speed drops almost to 0 and then resumes.. at sec 41 - same thing - why?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ds5xi4gcucvm9 ... 9.mp4?dl=0

[EarendilBG]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kwqhw0zu283dy ... 9.mp4?dl=0
Here temp is reached, but it does not seem to cool down and turn off.. Instead it stays ON and blows verly slowly.

Same here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/10xymfh2a3asg ... 8.mp4?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/rw6jmxaxezmiw ... 6.mp4?dl=0
Here it should be normal operation on HIGH, but because of the low fan speed, there is already ash inside the turbolators (yesterday when it was working fine, there was no ash)..

I did try all possible settings I could think of.

Could you elaborete:
- setting for high/low draught of the chimney chagnes what exactly? Does it affect only starting, or also fan operation?
- setting for plastic/steel auger affect what? Way it feeds pellets? It seems same to me? Pellets feeding is a bit erradic.. sometimes a few pellets, sometimes whole bunch..

[Stegatorparn]

I suspect there is a bad connection somewhere.
Start by taking apart and putting together the fan cable from the control board.
Do the same with the adapter if there is such on the fan cord.
Lift the microprocessor 1-2 mm carefully without legs loose from the socket and press then back again.

High/low draught switch makes it just start faster in high position.

Plastic/steel auger switch makes the auger feed a little more on steel position cause there is less friction on plastic surface.

[EarendilBG]

Hi, thank you for the information about the switches.

The problem turned out to be the Fan. It has some blown transistors inside the fan's board (visible).
A friend of mine will try to repair it tomorrow. If the processor chip is fine, he should be able to repair it
If not, I will order one from Sweden.

The information about all lamps dark was not correct (my father did not see it well). There was alarm code which pointed to the fan exactly.

Thank you for the help.

[EarendilBG]

By the way, while I am waiting for the new fan to come from Sweden, I was wondering if I need to change the adapter for the CTC.

The tube of the burner barely enters the chamber.. no more than 1-2 cm inside. Do I need to shorten the adapter so the burner enters more in?

see here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/rwwvde6r2hcl3 ... 4.mp4?dl=0

[Stegatorparn]

The Adapter looks to be about 10 cm long and corresponds to Värmebaronens own adapter.
But the Pellet Hose looks overheated. The Downpipe temperature should be about 40°C as you could put your hand on it. Higher temperature indicate bad draught. Never open the cleaning hatch on the boiler top when burner is working as this will kill the draught.

[EarendilBG]

Thank you once again.

I think the downpipe overheated this year, because my father started the burner with clogged chimney and turbulators. I did clean everything afterwards and it usually never heats. The chimney is about 12.5 height, and the draught regulator opens quite often even though it is set on 15, so it should be strong.

Regards

[EarendilBG]

Well.. i hope I am too annoying with my questions

Fan is replaced and I thought my problems are over, but alas - not. The new fan is working ok, so no problems there, but I have starting problem now.

Symptoms are as follows:
- feeding with pellets is OK (max dose)
- after a while flame starts (it is visible trough a tiny crack where the pipe enters the burner).
- however the burner continues to blow very low, as if there is no flame..
- it does so for some minutes.. tries to feed a little bit again, but it never increases the fan to start propper operation (inspite flame is good and visible);

If i feed more pellets by hand, so that the flame increases a lot - it "sees" it and starts working. Once it starts working - it works fine.

Questions is: do the flame sensor fail completely or it could loose sensitivity? I am thinking it does not detect the light flame? I can order a new sensor, but could it have such behaviour?

I did notice the connection of the sensor to the board seems a little wobbling.. (I saw similar post, but could no translate well). Tried to push it , but did not see difference.

I am leaning towards falty sensor, but you are more experienced.

Thank you

[Stegatorparn]

I have never experienced that flame sensor is broken.
Cleaned the sensor?
Could be a bad connection at the circuit board connection.
Place the burner on the floor with cord connected.
Shine a flashlight through the burner tube.
The LED light for "LÅGA" will then light up after about 15 seconds.
If not, slightly move the flame sensor cable at the circuit board to detect bad connection.
Still dead, disconnect the sensor and check the resistance with a multimeter.
Infinite resistance = faulty sensor.

[Eld]

I have experienced a bad connection between the flame sensor and the circuit board and that created the problem you describe. Probably due to oxide in the tiny plug on the end of the cable from the flame sensor. Try to unscrew the plug from the cable and clean all connecting surfaces to make sure you have a a flawless electrical conection between the sensor and the board.

[EarendilBG]

Well, I am not sure if there was a problem with the light sensor.
It is quite possible all the problems were related to the feeding of the pellets.

I took out the auger, dismanteled the tube and cleaned all.. now pellets feeding is back to mormal and the burber has been working flawlessly for the past 2 weeks.


Pellets are good thing once everithing is working as it should.. only fill pellets once every 2 days and clean it once a week..

Thanks for all the tips.