CTC Miljo 1100 HELP

[EarendilBG]

Hello,

first of all - sorry for the english language, but I think it is better than google translate

I am maybe the forst owner of CTC Miljo 1100 in Bulgaria (bought it in 1994) and it still operates great on electricity only till this day.

My problem is not connected to pellets, but I could not find information about this device anywhere in internet, but some comments here, so I hope someone might be able to help me. The company which I bout if from, does not exist already, so i cannot find help in my country.

The problem is that sometimes the boiler does not want to engage the 9 kw heater and only operates at 2.25 + 4.5 kw. This usually happens after power faliture. Yesterday one of my fuses burned out, and when I changed it and turned the boiler ON, it engaged p to 6.75 kw only even though the water is cool and the central knob is turnet to max. I do not have user manual, so I am not sure what to do.
A little to the right of the electric heaters knob (in the center) there is a hole and a small light turns on and off. I am sure it might be some kind of warning light but I do not know what it means. Any advise and help might be usefull.

I can manage to translate if you write in swedish, thank you.

[danei]

Thats normal. For 2 hours after a power interrupt i the power limited. This is to protect the grid form massive loads just after the interrupt.

[EarendilBG]

OMG, it is so simple once someone tells you

Another question then - There seems to be some decrease in the boilers efficiency over the 18 years of operation. I geas it could be due to scale formed onto the heaters or heat echangers.


Is there some cleaning or maintenance procedures I could do?

Thank you!

[micke_932]

The efficiency of the boiler should not change much over time, but the heat exchanger can cause problems, a common problem is deposition of lime inside the heat exchanger, it has to be flushed out, you can google for "lime scale removal" to find the best way to get rid of it.

It could of course also be build up of black oxide/iron oxide in the heat exchanger.

[EarendilBG]

Hi,

I need another advice about this heater.

My otside temp sensor stopped showing the temp. Also I had never had room temp sensor.
Now only the flow temp sensor is working.

I am guessing if I install a rooms temp sensor and outside air temp sensor, the heatr will operate much more economically and correctly.

However the old sensor cannot be found here. Can you tell me what type of temp sensor (characteristics) I must use for utside and inside, so I could find simular replacement?

Thank you

[bergatorparen]

In both cases, provided that it is a Danfoss regulator/weathercompensator (as they choose to call it), it should be a pt1000 resistor. These resistors kan be purchased from among others: http://www.energibutiken.se/sv/30-pt1000

They are fairly inexpensive and this link shows products for both inside and outside installation. I have the indoors version myself, and it works a treat.

I hope this helps you along. The winter is already knocking on the door, so we'd better be ready for it

[EarendilBG]

Thank you very much, I found such sensors here in the neighbourhood This shoud help reduce the electricity bill, 'cause today was 16 C outside, but the regulator kept being open all day and it was very very hot in the house..

Winter is knocking here also, although Bulgaria is much south than Sweden

[EarendilBG]

Hi again.

It is time for me to turn to pellets. Oil and electricity are too expensive already..

Is the Viking Bio - best pellet burner for the CTC 1100?

I had many offers here in BG for whotle pellet boilers, but the CTC is working flawlessly for 19 years now, and I don't see the need to change something which is working perfectly for so many years.

However most pellet burners offered here in BG are not suitable for the CTC. I have a friend in Sweden who can buy burner for me from there.

What whould you reccoment? Any tips would be much appreciated.

Thank you

[sänkan]

VikingBio is not the best burner for a CTC 1100.
A BioBjörn burner costs 400 SEK more than VikingBio and is equipped with automatic ash removement from the burner roster. Needs a small air compressor.
http://www.energibiten.net/page3.php

Baxi Eurofire is also a reliable burner but there is no automatic cleaning.

[EarendilBG]

Well,

unfortunately my freind in Se could only find used Viking BIo in such short notice, and to fit my budget.

Now I have to install it some way (not to mention that the tubes of the burner are with huge holes, so now I am making new ones).

The tube of the Viking bio is 130 mm, while the original door has 120 mm opening.. I can just widen the opening o the original door.. or make a new door.

Do you have any reccomendations ragrding the installation? I have read some threads here, but google translate makes quite a bad job translating technical terms from swedish

I can see the these tubes get burned out quite often. Maybe I should search for thicker metal?
http://halmstad-stad.annonsera.se/inre- ... 67441.html

Any reccomendations in english would help me a lot.

Thank you very much in advance.

[Holger]

Buying a dodgy burner and then repair it is often more expensive then buying a more modern "press the button and run" burner. The whole VikingBio part of the forum is filled with problems.
Can you produce the burner tube yourself you will have to use high quality stainless steel made for use in high temperature. As a mechanist I wouldnt even think of making a tube myself.

The CTC1100 is made for 25 kW oil and that means not more than 13 kW with pellets. The Viking Bio pelletburner works between 20 and 15 kW. It has too big capacity for the CTC1100 so you will have to cut of some of the 6 turbulators in the CTC1100.

[Stegatorparn]

The tube you linked to is a very good tube made of thicker metal, 3mm stainless steel.
I use it myself.
The spare tubes are made in thicker material since a couple of years ago.

Regarding the door, you can widen the hole if possible.
You can also replace the door with a mounting plate that is screwed into the boiler with the door bolts.
Värmebaronen have made ​​a door for CTC 1100 and Viking Bio, but I'm not sure if it is still manufactured.

[EarendilBG]

Thank you for the comments.

Well, that's done is done.. I have bought the VIking bio for 6000 SEK and the new tubes costed about 3000 more in SE. I have found 3 mm stainless tubes here in BG and I am pretty sure I will make the new ones for no more than 1000 SEK .. please don't be too ruogh on me, as 3000 SEK is a normal salary for 1 month here in BG

What do you mean by "cutting" some of the turbolators? Simply remove some of them, or what?

I will let you know how it goes

[EarendilBG]

Hello again.

I have managed to make new 3 mm thick tubes and to enlarge the original door from 12 to 13 cm and the burner is ready to install, but I have some difficulties in how to connect the cables.
I only have swedish manual and google translate can't help me.

There are only 5 wires , can you help me which - where?
And maybe some hints on the settings of the burner?

thank you a lot

[EarendilBG]

I have now taken time to view more in detail.. so all is clear except:

Do I use the CTC to control the on/off of the pelletburner or should I purchase seperate sensor?

Or can I set it somehow to use electricity at the beggining of the hot-water demand and then to run on the pellets?